Architectural Details Direct - 903-356-2158

PRODUCT - BALUSTRADE ASSEMBLY - WE DON'T DO
(Use when customer asks if we can assemble Balusters and Rails in Balustrade sections.)

It's important to completely paint all surfaces of exterior items with oil-based primer and multiple coats of quality oil-based paint. Since wood's end grain absorbs moisture more easily, it's especially important that Baluster bottoms be painted prior to assembly.

Therefore, we cannot assemble for you. Your results will be much better and longer lasting if you assemble only after thoroughly painting all surfaces.

However, we can make it very easy for you by providing your Balusters notched on their bottoms to perfectly fit our Sloped-top Bottom Rail - and Sloped-top Bottom Rail should always be used outside for wooden Balusters and Rails.

If you follow our easy balustrade installation system you will find the assembly process very straightforward.

PRODUCT - BRACKETS ON COLUMNS/POSTS WITH BUMP OUT
(Use when customer wants to put our Brackets on a Column or Post that has a bump-out at the top, including those with moulding at the top.)

Most of our Brackets are standard with attached frames. It will probably be easier to install Brackets over a Column "bump out" (the plinth and/or ring at the top) if they are not framed. If you will let us know how far out from the main Column surface and how far down from the top your "bump out" is, we can suggest Brackets that should fit over the "bump out" without modification. If you wish your Brackets to have a frame, it might also work to remove some of the frame prior to installation. Again, that depends on the size of your "bump out."

You can see Before & After photos of such an installation here.

PRODUCT - BRACKETS ON ROUND COLUMN/POSTS
(Use when customer wants to put our Brackets on a round Column or Post.)

Spandrels and porch Brackets can be added to your round Columns. In fact, if you add both it makes it easier to install the porch Brackets, as we will explain below.

If requested, we can provide Classic Spandrels with extra top and bottom railing at both ends. Before installation you will cut more off the top rail (so that it can span the distance between your Column capitals) and less off the bottom rails (so that they extend to the Column shaft). If you want to proceed with this, let us know and we will provide instruction for the simple measurements we will need to provide so that we can properly build your chosen Spandrels.

Spandrel design is a matter of personal choice, but we would probably go with one of our Spool or Traditional Spandrels.

Once your Spandrels are installed, and assuming you pick a Spandrel that is tall enough to extend below the second moulding on your Columns, you can then add unframed porch Brackets below these Spandrels. As long as you stay with 3/4" or 1" Bracket thickness, the small gap between Bracket and Column will not be a problem.

It is also possible to add porch Brackets to round Columns without installing Spandrels. The trick is to select porch Brackets that have sufficient space in their design to miss your Column capitals. (The lower Column moulding can be cut and a small section equal to the width of the Bracket removed to allow the Bracket to rest against the shaft of the Column.)

You can see Before & After photos of such an installation here.

Brackets that work well with round Columns include most of our Crescent Brackets, providing they are ordered without frames. The larger ones (links to those are on the far right side of that page) can be ordered 3/4" or 1" thick by special request.

If you think you might want to add Crescent Brackets to your Columns (without first installing Spandrels, as discussed above) then let us now and we'll reply with the dimensions we will need to help you select ones that will fit your Columns.

CELLULAR PVC BEADBOARD - CEILING
Thanks for the email!

Cellular PVC Beadboard is super low maintenance... perfect for use on your porch ceiling, and very cost effective when its durability is taken into account! Comes in factory-tough white but can be painted another color. Either way, it looks like traditional painted wood Beadboard.

Quick and Simple Installation! Each 1/2" thick x 8-5/8" wide (7-7/8" installed) board contains 5 beads and appears to be 5 individual boards when installed.

A wide nailing tab on one side of each board eliminates typical "through the tongue" nailing. And, since each adjoining board is held in place by a snug tongue & groove joint on the other side, nailing is only necessary on one side of each board. Super simple! Super quick!

COMPOUND NOTCHING
We strongly recommend using our Sloped-Top Bottom Rail on your stairs. This will help protect the railing on the stairs from water damage. You will need to order the Balusters being used for the stairs un-notched. Below is a brief explanation of how to Notch Balusters for use with our Sloped-top Bottom Rail on stairs:

A compound cut (2 angles at once) will be required, since the notch itself must slope to match the slope of your stairs. We don't provide this type of notching option, as sloped notches are best done on the job site. A skilled carpenter, following the instructions below, will be able to fit your Balusters.

You will most likely want to order Balusters for the stair railing one length longer to accommodate the angled cuts.

It is always a good idea to make test cuts in a scrap of wood and test fit everything prior to final notching of Balusters. The final test piece should be saved as a pattern.

Example: If the angle of slope on your stairs is 45 degrees, and since our Sloped-top Bottom Rail is beveled to 30 degrees per side, a properly sloped notch can be cut as follows:

Using a radial arm saw, set the blade to a 30 degree bevel to match the slope of either side of our Sloped-top Bottom Rail. Swing the arm of the saw to match the slope of your stairs (45 degrees in this example). Set the height of the blade to cut halfway through the Baluster.

With one edge of the Baluster along the fence of the saw and the bottom of the Baluster closest to the saw blade, crosscut to the center of the Baluster.

Swing the arm to the other side of the saw table and reset at the same 45 degrees. (Blade bevel remains unchanged at 30 degrees.) Flip the Baluster over and complete the notch with another crosscut.

If your angle settings are correct and the depth of each cut is to the center of the Baluster, the two cuts should meet cleanly at the bottom of the notch.

Frequently compare your cuts to the previously prepared pattern to be sure the saw is staying properly set.

COMPOUND NOTCHING - STAIRS
We can make the compound notch cuts that our stair Baluster bottoms require to fit over our Sloped-top Bottom Rail at your steps. The fee for this special bottom notching is $2.00 per Baluster. At the same time, and with no additional charge, we can cut the proper slope on the top of each Baluster.

As you may know, stairs are typically described by their 'rise' and 'run' and this is what we will need to know to make the proper compound cuts for your Baluster bottoms. (This assumes all steps are of equal run and rise.)

Rise is the vertical height from the TOP of one stair tread to the TOP of the next one. Run is the horizontal distance from the FRONT of one riser to the FRONT of the next riser, NOT including the overhanging portion of the tread, if any.

Additionally, we will need to know the overall installed length you wish your Balusters to be after we cut BOTH ends. It is very difficult at long distance to advise on the Baluster length your particular application needs. We suggest using scrap wood to simulate the Newels and top and bottom rails on one side of the steps. Rails can be nailed or screwed to the side of the dummy Newels for ease of assembly and both dummy Rails and Newels can be left long.

What you want to simulate is the top of both the Handrail and the Bottom Rail. Once you have this temporarily in place, and with the actual height of both permanent Rail assemblies marked onto the temporary Rails, it should be a simple matter to determine the overall length your Balusters need to be prior to cutting.

We will send ONE cut Baluster to you for approval prior to cutting the others. Please reply with which style, size, and overall finished length of Baluster you need, as well as the rise and run of your stairs. We will also need to know which size of our Sloped-top Bottom Rail you will need, as the top angle varies with the size of Bottom Rail.

RAILS - CURVED
We have both interior and exterior Handrails available in a Bending Rail to create a curved Rail.

Our interior Bending Handrail consists of 5-7 individual strips to make a full curved Handrail available in several wood species. For Exterior Curved Handrails, you have three options:

1. PVC Handrail available in a bending rail (not shown, but same profile as straight PVC Standard Handrail.

2. AZEK PVC Handrail available in a bending rail (not shown, but same profile as 3-1/4" AZEK PVC Woodcore Handrail. It has four individual interior PVC strips with two PVC Beaded Sides and a PVC Top Cap. All components will bend easily except the Top Cap which would have to be heated for bending by using a Heat Gun, Hair Dryer or putting into a tub of hot water.

3. Additionally, we have a Polyurethane Bending Handrail (not shown, but same profile as straight Polyurethane Handrails.

We can get a quote on Bending Rails with additional information from you. Please inquire.

RAILS - WARPED
To get warp out of rails, try placing the "cup" side up and wet the ends that need to be pulled up. Place in sun and be sure to check on regularly so the ends do not pull up too much.

We hope this works well for you. If we can be of further assistance, please let us know.

GABLE DECORATIONS - PITCH
IF CS DOES NOT KNOW PITCH
Instructions for determining your roof pitch.

IF CS KNOWS HORIZONTAL MEASUREMENT
Based on your horizontal measurement, your pitch is approximately <<<<>>>>>

You can use the online Roof Pitch/closest Horizontal Measurement pop-down at your chosen Gable Decoration listing to indicate your Horizontal Measurement for each gable you're ordering. We'll take it from there!

View and order Gable Decorations.

OIL-BASED PAINT VS ACRYLIC
We have always recommended high-quality oil-based primer and oil-based paint because that is what Sherwin Williams recommended. In some States, paint companies (including Sherwin Williams) are phasing out oil-based products, and as we understand, acrylic latex has been improved over the recent years. We believe that an acrylic latex Finish Coat over an oil-based primer will be fine.

WEIGHT BEARING - WOOD BRACKETS
Yes, many of our customers do use our Brackets as you've described. However, it is not possible for us to rate our Brackets for weight capacity, as this depends upon the Bracket chosen, it's thickness, type of wood, and installation.

Generally speaking, thicker Brackets with less detailed cutwork are stronger. Pine and Cypress are medium strength woods. Oak, Poplar and other hardwoods are stronger. Cedar and Redwood are not as strong. Installing Brackets closer together will spread the load. Additional hardware (purchased locally) for extra support is also an option, if needed.